Hello friends, Amy here with a baked good I made last week. I wanted to bring treats to share with my friends, something we could nibble while we passed the break table. And if no one had to wash plates, forks or spoons, that was a bonus. My people truly delight in cooking, hadn’t had anything mesquite in ages, and I wanted to impress. After considering my options for a month, I suddenly realized… that’s this afternoon!!!
Drought makes for patchy harvesting, but I had a stash of pods. The trick to making HOME grinding work, especially in humid weather, is to toast the pods RIGHT before grinding. No community mesquite pod milling event near you? Need that mesquite meal TODAY? No problem!
I baked in a thin layer at about 275 degrees F with convection for maybe 5 minutes. Try longer if you don’t use or have a fan. It should smell sweeeeet. I opted to not develop any golden color, but that’s an option!
After cooling JUST enough to handle easily, I tossed the pods into a high powered blender. A regular blender or food process does not suffice. Without the last minute toasting, grinding makes a paste in there. This of course is an issue with any mesquite meal grinding method, but expecially for the blender or stone tools.
Unbelievablly, it only takes a few pulses.
Any fine sieve or a flour sifter can remove the meal form the hard bits of unground pod and seed. Any grinding method will require this step, even hammer mills.
Sifting is even faster than grinding, depending on the size of the holes and quanity of mesquite meal needed.
To show off this flour, I impulsively chose a simple recipe from this small out of print book. However, you can purchase the huge current edition!
Chocolate chip cookies! I had a half bag of chocolate chips and pecans on hand, and chocolate with mesquite is classic. In case my butter spent too much time in the freezer, I doubled the vanilla. No brown sugar in sight, but a gallon of mollassas to use up.
I love making my notes in hard copy cookbooks, and reading the kitchen culture from long gone relatives in their books. And the bookmarks that are labels from my friends’ gifted food creations are my kind of treasures.
I baked these chocolate chip oatmeal mesquite pecan cookies until just barely set, let them finish cooling in transit, and served them chewy with the chocolate still melted. I’m sure they would not tolerate stacking. Some were full sized, the others bit sized. None were leftover.
We aren’t alone. Living through this extended drought and awesome heat in the Sonoran Desert is a major feat for any creature out there–plant or animal–no matter how desert-adapted it may be! We are all feeling it. Difficult to imagine how creatures, like the long-lived desert tortoise, manage through the kind of intense drought we are experiencing.
Even in my back yard, my tended prickly pear, covered in buds and tender nopales last April, is ending this summer with tunas dropping before mature or devoured by cactus wrens, and pads chomped by packrats or ground squirrels.
Tia Marta here to share some thoughts about us humans harvesting from the wild. As I learned from my Tohono O’odham mentor, in earlier times Indigenous people had to suffer through lean times using the desert foods they’d stored from times of plenty. They knew sporatic seasonal productivity is the name of the game in the desert. Wise cultural tradition dictates that you harvest abundance when it happens, share your plenty, and store as much as possible against the expected lean times.
Very few native prickly pears have produced fruit this year in the Sonoran Desert, so as human desert harvesters I feel we must refrain this year, and consider the needs of our wild neighbors, the deer, javalina, cottontails, rodents, birds, etc who need what forage remains– far more than we do.
Instead, I suggest we go for an invasive! How about eating from the white lead tree, known as guaje in Mexico, huaxin by the Aztec in its region of origin? Its presence as an invader into the Sonoran Desert generates interesting controversy. The seeds contain an amino acid mimocine toxic for us mammals who have no rumen for digestion. However Guaje‘s young pods, when green, can be cooked in soups or in tacos, as cooking removes the toxicity. This small fast-growing tree has other positive attributes: It is used as great cattle fodder, provides stovewood fuel, erosion remediation, herbal medicine, and it adds soil nitrogen. Its profuse and often continued flowering makes it a good pollinator support. Caution: it IS an invasive species and, if let loose in our desert, could compromise our precious natives..
Guajes (Leucaena leucocephala) have been known and appreciated in Sonora, Mexico, for decades if not centuries. It is planted on the University of Arizona campus (see UA Arboretum) and is being researched as a potential future food plant for climate change by horticulturists at Mission Garden. I’m glad guaje volunteered in our yard from soil in a potted plant. It created a little grove of blessed shade for us, and bees have been abuzz over its puffs of cream-white flowers every spring.
I recently gathered a gallon bag of dry pods which yielded only 1/8 cup of small seed. They resemble flax seed. I soaked them to see if any were viable. About 1/3 of them swelled. When cooked for 15 minutes to remove mimosine, and drained, they proved nut-like and tasty. I’m adding them to my home-made bean dip. As a legume they will provide good protein in addition to texture and new flavor.
To go with the dip, I’m using a scant amount (a tablespoon per 8oz) of my conserved prickly pear juice, harvested and frozen August last year, with flavored fizzy, gingerale and a splash of mescal. With this dressed up punch, we’re sending a toast to all desert creatures out there! We hope they are benefitting from any prickly pear tunas that may be ripening in our hot, dry desert!
A colorful assortment of Tia Marta’s watercolor art-notecards depicting Southwest Native American heirloom foods can be found at the Mission Garden shop, or online at NativeSeeds/SEARCH.
It’s Carolyn today and I’m out in my garden to pick some delicious and healthy vegetables to bring you a season-spanning recipe. If your Ficus Indica prickly pear (the Mexican tall kind) sent out its leaves a little late this spring, you probably have a few smaller pads that are still tender enough to cook. Combine those with the purslane in your summer garden for a delicious vegetable side dish or taco filling. If you don’t have your own cactus. you can always pick up some nopal pads at any Mexican grocery store. If you buy the kind already cleaned, you’ll need to use them right away as once they are scraped, they go bad quickly. We have previously discussed how to clean prickly pear pads here.
We’ve also discussed purslane previously in this blog here, but I’ll copy the nutritional information because it is so important:
It’s sad but true that right now people are out in their yards pulling these plants out and tossing them in the garbage (or compost for the more enlightened). They should be tossing them in the wok or frying pan (see recipe below.) Purslane provides six times more vitamin E than spinach and seven times more beta carotene than carrots. It’s also rich in vitamin C, magnesium, riboflavin, potassium and phosphorus. One cup of cooked purslane has 25 milligrams (20 percent of the recommended daily intake) of vitamin C.
Especially important to those of us eating a modern diet, purslane is very high in an essential omega-3 fatty acid called alpha-linolenic acid (ALA). Omega-3s are a class of polyunsaturated essential fatty acids. Your body cannot manufacture essential fatty acids, so you must get them from food. Certain fibers also help in controlling blood sugar.
If your aren’t familiar with purslane or verdolagas, here’s a closeup photo:
Here are all your ingredients for the tacos: (top) prickly pear leaves and purslane, (bottom) onion slices, garlic and poblano chile.
This is what the ingredients will look like cooked.
Sonoran Summer Tacos
2 2×4-inch prickly pear pads or equivalent
½ white or yellow onion
2 cloves garlic, minced (1 teaspoon)
2 tablespoons neutral vegetable oil
1 cup verdolaga (purslane), packed
1 roasted, peeled, cleaned Anaheim or poblano chile, cut into pieces
(or 2 tablespoons chopped canned green chiles)
4 corn tortillas or small flour tortillas
2-4 tablespoons crumbled cotija cheese or cheese of choice
Using rubber gloves, clean the stickers from the prickly pear pads. Rinse and cut into pieces 2 inches by 1/8 inch (roughly the size of a wood matchstick.) Set aside.
Cut the onion into thin strands by cutting from the root to the stem (not crosswise). Add the oil to a heavy frying pan and begin sautéing the onion over low medium heat. You want it to cook slowly until soft and light brown. After about 10 minutes, add the garlic. While that is happening, you can prep the rest of the ingredients.
Cut the fresh chile into pieces about 1 inch by 1/8 inch. Chop the verdolagas (purslane) roughly. After 10-15 minutes when the onions are ready, stir in the greens and chile and continue to cook.
Coat a heavy frying pan with a light spray of oil and soften the tortillas. Divide the vegetables among the tortillas. Sprinkle with cheese and fold over.
Every recipe writer whether for a blog or cookbook, needs a taste tester. Is it good? Would you eat it again? Here is my taste tester who has eaten his way through five cookbooks and dozens of these blog posts over forty years.
Chief taste tester Ford Burkhart works his way through the Sonoran Summer Tacos for lunch. He gave them the thumbs up.
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You can learn more about the history of food in Southern Arizona in my latest book A Desert Feast, the story of the last 4,000 years of food in the Sonoran Desert. Want more recipes using foods of the Southwest? You’d find ideas for collecting and using 23 easily recognized and gathered desert foods in Cooking the Wild Southwest: Delicious Recipes for Desert Foods. . Recipes from top Southwest chefs are collected in The New Southwest Cookbook. Just click on the titles for more information. You can learn more about me on my website.
Honey Wine with Saguaro Fruit, Summer Solstice 2025
Honey, the golden elixir of the bees, is famous for its impressive shelf stability, or resistance to spoiling. By its nature, it can remain edible for an extraordinarily long time. In grade school, I remember delighting in the fact that archaeologists found honey in King Tutankhamun’s 3,000 year old tomb. Cave paintings in Africa dated to thousands of years ago depict honey hunters who braved a defensive colony of bees (Hollmann 2015) to access the calorically valuable, medicinal, and tantalizing substance which could be consumed or stored long term.
I love to think about the early honey harvesters of Africa and imagine the first time someone combined honey with water, and fermentation soon began–an exciting transformation took place! This is thanks to the action of microbes (as is commonly the case, at least with fermented foods). While humans crave the complex sweetness of honey, it turns out that honey is a favorite food of some microbes such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a species of yeast. The yeast consume the honey and convert it to alcohols and carbon dioxide.
Honey wine, T’ej…sweet and warm like the solstice evening light.
It is thought that honey wine known as t’ej (say: “tedge”, with a soft d) originated in Ethiopia and Eritrea, and upwards of 5 million people consume t’ej on a daily basis (Belay n.d.). However honey wine variations are found in many parts of the world including Mexico and Poland (Katz 2012). You may know t’ej by its other name of mead, an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey with water. It is truly simple and fun to make t’ej at home by adding raw unpasteurized honey (which contains natural yeasts that kickstart fermentation) with pure water, but you can also add an endless variety of edible botanicals like herbs and fruit to create a unique or medicinal mead. While mead can be aged for months, you can drink it “young” after only a couple weeks of high-energy fermentation. What kinds of honey wine will you make to share with family and friends?
I was inspired to make t’ej for the first time by my friend Andrias Asnakew, a Tucsonan of Ethiopian descent who established Brillé Mead Company here in 2023. I was honored to share homemade t’ej with him and his welcoming friends who hosted us on Easter, clinking glasses as they described the traditional recipe. They taught me that East African t’ej is traditionally made with honey, water, and the leaves of gesho (Latin name Rhamnus prinoides, a plant native to southern and eastern Africa) which adds a distinct bitter flavor and wild yeast to start the brew (Belay, n.d.). I am grateful for the family’s hospitality and generosity, and to Andrias whose knowledge guided me through the process.
Friends gathering with traditional t’ej (Ethiopean honey wine).
Around the time I was pondering which ingredient to include in my first mead, I was marveling at the crowns of white trumpeting blossoms on the haṡan (Tohono O’odham name for the native saguaro cacti). I wondered what saguaro fruit honey wine would taste like? It seemed that using fresh red bahidaj saguaro fruit would be a perfect way to celebrate the solstice on June 20th, and to harken for rain on Dia de San Juan on June 24th. (For more on saguaro traditions, enjoy reading about the Tohono O’odham’s beloved bahidaj saguaro fruit from teacher Muffin, known as Sister Marta here at Savor the Southwest blog: Summer Solstice, and Sister Carolyn’s It’s Saguaro Season.). This mead would be fully Sonoran desert, made from local honey and saguaro fruit…
Bahidaj (Tohono O’odham for saguaro fruit), June 2025
I am glad to report that my first batch of honey wine/mead/t’ej was a happy success (recipe to follow) with very little cost and effort. The tasters gave feedback that the flavor is more dynamic than they expected, with real body and interest. There’s a bit of liveliness, but it’s not bubbly. Many folks commented on its balance: a little citrusy, and not too sweet; a light fruitiness, and warmth from the honey. There is a pleasant yeastiness like fresh bread, though it doesn’t taste strongly of alcohol. We all noted the way it gently, pleasantly nudges you toward relaxation (I estimate the percent alcohol of my brew 4.5-5% ABV). If you prefer a stronger t’ej, you can increase the amount of honey, or a lighter less alcoholic brew can be made using less honey.
The recipe is so flexible and invites endless experimentation. The ratio of honey to water is anywhere from 1:4 (one part honey added to four parts water) to 1:16 (for a very light mead, or if you’re adding a lot of sweet fruit also). The variety of creative optional additions is endless: fresh or dried fruit (berries, native fruits encouraged), herbs (lemon balm, rose, mint) or spices (ginger, cardamom, cloves, or cinnamon). Take notes of your selection, process, and quantities. Andrias started experimenting with different flavors: strawberry, carkeda (hibiscus), habañero. It is a natural beverage; you know exactly what went into it when you make it yourself.
Recipe for Honey Wine (T’ej or Mead)
This recipe was adapted from Sandor Elix Katz’s excellent book, The Art of Fermentation, with inspiration and guidance from Ethiopian t’ej maker Andrias Asnakew (Tucson, Arizona).
This recipe yields about 2+ gallons mead (can be scaled), potentially 4-5% alcohol, approximately (a hydrometer can measure this precisely if you wish)
1 quart local raw honey (32 ounces)– my personal favorite is Tucson Honey Company from Tucson local farmer’s markets. 2 gallons+ pure, filtered water (~260 ounces) (if tap water is the only option, see below**) ~1 cup raisins, optional but recommended to feed the yeast–added a little at a time. Optional ½ teaspoon mead yeast (such as strain EC-1118. Check your local brew shop or find online). Optional fresh or dried fruit (local and native fruits encouraged), herbsor spices. Experiment with quantity: a few cups of fresh fruit, or maybe around one cup if of dried herbs. For spices, try a handful or so and see how it goes.
Ripe saguaro fruit
1. Clean a ~2.5 gallon fermentation vessel (ideally glass or stainless steel, but food grade plastic works). Wide mouth is best.
2. Pour the honey into the vessel, and add about half the water. Stir stir stir till it dissolves, then add the rest of the water, leaving just a few inches at the top for bubbles and stirring. Cover with a cloth or loose lid, and place on a baking sheet to catch any drips. Add optional yeast, and optional fruit or herbs/spices.
Dissolve honey in pure water to start the fermentation process.
3. This is Day 0. Leave in a cool spot in the house where you’ll walk by frequently. I keep a long stirring spoon next to the vessel and stir it often, daily (at least two or three times+ daily). This introduces air for the yeast. Sandor Katz recommends we stir a few revolutions, then reverse the stir quickly to introduce air (biodynamic style!). Delight in the bubbles and give your greetings to the millions of hungry microbes hard at work!
Full quantity of water mixed with honey. Ready to ferment!
4. After a few days of frequent stirring, you should start to see more and more bubbles when you stir. The yeast is waking up. This is Day 3. Add a palmful of raisins (a special ingredient by Andrias- he says it provides food to the yeast!) (This is the point when I harvested and added ripe fresh saguaro fruit, but it can be added at the beginning, too.)
Red saguaro fruit has been added to the bubbling brew.
5. Continue stirring multiple times per day. On Day 5 or 6, add another palmful of raisins, and again at Day 8-9.
6. At about Day 10-12, the bubbles will begin to reduce in number and fervor. The yeast quickly consume and ferment most of the natural glucose in the honey, producing the alcohol and delicious brew. (The natural fructose takes longer to ferment and only does so if you age your mead for weeks and months.)
Frothy bubbles of active yeast activity!
7. Taste the mead. If it is too sweet for your liking, you can continue to stir and ferment a bit longer to “dry it out”. If you prefer more sweetness, Andras suggests you can “back sweeten” (add a bit of honey) to taste if desired, ideally a day prior to drinking it.
8. Strain out any fruit, and serve at room temperature or chilled. Try both! The typical serving vessel for t’ej is a narrow-necked bottle called a berele.
The best way to enjoy your homemade honey wine is with friends, of course. I bet that you’ll pique curiosities about your brewing methods and newfound skill, and bring smiles to everyone’s face. Andrias thoughtfully shared that “you can tell from the smile that the food or drink is good”.
Honey Wine with Saguaro Fruit, Summer Solstice 2025
In Appreciation:
Thank you to my teachers, including the bahidaj (saguaros), for their ongoing generosity and cultivation of our minds and hearts.
Thanks to my new friends Andrias and incredible hosts Tilahun and his wife Kidist who are sharing their culture from Ethiopia with all of us in Tucson, Arizona.
Thanks to my mother Judith for kindly copy editing.
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**To remove chlorine from the water simply draw the necessary amount of water and leave it out overnight. The chlorine will naturally evaporate from the open vessel.
Bibliography
Belay, T. B. (n.d.). Call for access and benefit sharing of Rhamnus prinoides (Gesho). Ethiopian Biodiversity Institute, Genetic Resource Access and Benefit Sharing Directorate.
Katz, S. E., The Art of Fermentation: An In-depth Exploration of Essential Concepts and Processes from Around the World. Chelsea Green Publishing, 2012.
It was a whole new gastronomic experience for me–now perhaps for you too! On a recent trip to colorful Oaxaca, Mexico, with a Mission Garden tour, my eyes and tastes were opened to traditions and to tantalizing potentials of grasshoppers!!Chapulines! (cha-poo-LEE-nays). Tia Marta here to share some fun ideas for trying chapulines creatively, AND some surprising facts about their nutrition.
Grasshoppers, when cooked like this with salt and lime, look a bit more palatable than in nature. Better still–They crunch pleasantly and have tasty snack flavors! Get curious–throw preconceived notions to the wind! After all, insects are the wave of our food-future. (Now I see that chapulines are available all over the internet–no need to travel, but Oaxaca ISa special place to visit for amazing foods!)
Step 1–Roasting or toasting already-cooked chapulines in a dry iron skillet makes them into crispy delicacies–and they’re much easier to grind into the PerfectChapulin Spice Mix, full of flavor and NUTRITION too! Did you know they are high in protein, dietary fiber, rich in vitamins A,B,and C, have magnesium, calcium, zinc, and essential fatty acids? We might think of them as “recycled, concentrated vegetables.”
Step 2 for the Perfect Chapulin Spice Mix: collect and dry a few chiltepin peppers from your own bush before the birds get them–or find them at NativeSeedsSEARCH or Tucson’s Mission Garden. When pods are dry, you only need 2 or 3 tiny chiltepin pods to add to your spice mix.
Your chapulin–chiltepin spice mix will be more off-the-wall better than any other!
Step 3: Find good natural sea salt–available at many stores. To stay as Sonoran-Desert-local as possible for this project, I made a mix of local salt crystals, one from the Sea of Cortez gifted to me by ASDM ethnobotanist/explorer/educator Jesus Garcia, and another from Guerrero Negro actually made on the Pacific coast of Baja California by Mission Garden volunteer Gay Gilbert.
Step 4: You are ready to crush your ingredients with a hand mortar and pestle! RECIPE for the Perfect Chapulin Spice Mix: (This is a good ratio for any quantity): 1 Tbsp. toasted chapulines 1 tsp. sea salt crystals 2-3 tiny chiltepin pods (to desired “heat”) Mill to desired rough or fine texture.
1st idea: sprinkle on jicama slices w/lime!
2nd idea: Chapulin Spice Mix on homemade pizza or quesadillas! I sprinkled my mix for a fast delicious lunch on a tortilla with melted cheddar cheese and nopalitos–yum!
3rd idea: Dress up hash browns for a zippy Southwest palate-pleaser with your Chapulin Spice Mix!
4th idea: For a cool (and simple) buffet or hors d’oeuvre, sprinkle Chapulin Spice Mix on sliced cucumbers or other veggies. It adds a little kick!
Another super-healthy idea: Add Braggs’ Nutritional Yeast to your Chapulin Spice Mix and toss it with pumpkin seeds or sunflower seeds for a grand health-enhancing snack or energy-boosting trail-mix!
Tia Marta encouraging you–don’t hesitate to take on these delicious gifts of Nature–chapulines! yes, grasshoppers– and try your hand experimenting with your own ways of enjoying them! The next time there is a grasshopper outbreak, don’t swear and fret. Grab your butterfly net! Get out to the garden for a new and different harvest on the fly! Bake them, toast them, spice them up for treats! See what kept early Zapotec and Mixtec cultures thriving with these tiny but plentiful gifts of the insect world. You will be a pace-setter for a future with changing climate!
(The Savor the Southwest guest poster today is Barbara Rose. She has lived and worked at Bean Tree Farm since 1985. She is an enthusiastic expert in all things Sonoran Desert and has taught hundreds of students how to live in and appreciate this fragile and glorious ecosystem. We thank her for her knowledge and years of inspiration.)
My grandma Evie was born in Brooklyn in 1900 to Ukrainian immigrants, and she moved to southwest Florida in the 1920s. Her back yard was a forest of avocado and citrus trees, and her kitchen was fragrant with crocks of garlicky green tomatoes, cucumber pickles and pots of simmering chicken soup “with the feet” (her way of saying the whole chicken). She smeared onion-infused chicken fat on slices of dense black pumpernickel, and served up bowls of cold, sweet-sour beet borscht, with a hot boiled potato and big dollop of sour cream. I am so grateful that she shared with me a treasure of food and family stories.
Beets have been pickled and soured by lactic acid fermentation for ages. I love beets, but I’m not so good at growing them. Prickly pear cactus thrive, and the ripe fruits are delicious, nutritious, and a gorgeous color.
The animals know when prickly pears are ripe. If they have been nibbling, it is time to pick.
I’ve developed a way to make borscht with fermented prickly pears- red desert fruits that sour nicely, have a sweet earthy flavor, and carry far away family food traditions into the desert food forest I love and care for!
I hope you enjoy the recipe, expand on it, and make it your own.
Mash the fruit. It is easier if you freeze first as this helps break down the cell walls.
Be sure to strain the liquid through a fine mesh strainer to catch every last glochid (those are the tiny thorns).
Simmering the juice and broth helps meld the flavors.
SONORAN DESERT BORSCHT
Makes 2 quarts
1 quart fermented, sweet-sour prickly pear fruit juice (see method below)
1 quart broth, strained and chilled (chicken, vegetable, bone, mesquite, or combo, flavored with herbs, alliums, chiles, or whatever you have.)
1 hot boiled potato per serving
Sour cream, crema, yogurt
Combine prickly pear mixture and broth. Simmer with salt, pepper, chile, and your choice of herbs to taste to blend flavors. Chill if serving cold.
To each bowl of borscht add a boiled potato. Garnish with sour cream, and serve with sides of hard-boiled eggs, green onion, and sliced cucumbers.. Borscht turns a gorgeous magenta-pink when the cream is stirred in. Enjoy!
How to ferment prickly pear juice:
Add 1/2 cup of kombucha or whey (liquid strained from yogurt or cheese-making) to 1 quart of prickly pear juice a day or so ahead of making your borscht. Cover with a cloth and taste on occasion. It will develop a sweet-sour flavor as it ferments. When it has that “tang” but still retains some sweetness, it’s ready to use. Sometimes I combine citrus juice with the prickly pear and ferment both. This juice will store in your fridge for some time, becoming more sour from fermentation. It can also be frozen.
Final step: Serve for lunch. Goes well with other desert delicacies. Find recipes in the Desert Harvesters’ cookbook Eat Mesquite, a Cookbook for Sonoran Desert Foods.
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You can find more recipes for prickly pear and other wild desert foods in Eat Mesquite and More: a Cookbook for Sonoran Desert Foods and Living, available at Food Conspiracy Co-op, EXO, Crisol, Mission Garden, Desert Museum, and online at desertharvesters.org. More recipes can be found inCooking the Wild Southwest: Delicious Recipes for Desert Plants.
At the end of a year of simple steps, a refreshing glass of pomegranate wine.
(We are continuing our series of guest posts. Today it is Emily Rockey, who for many years was the garden supervisor at Mission Garden and in charge of the health of dozens of pomegranate trees. This post is a bit longer than we usually send, but if you’ve ever wanted to learn to make wine, Emily will take you on that journey.)
There’s something so sweetly satisfying about sitting down to enjoy a delicious treat that you made from scratch with your own hands. Better yet, something that you wild harvested or grew yourself. For some folks, that might be homemade sourdough bread, prickly pear jelly, or a meal prepared from the garden or desert. But have you ever tried making your own wine?
Perhaps you’re thinking that you need specialized, expensive equipment, or a degree in oenology (the study of winemaking). It’s possible you don’t have grapes with an impressive provenance which keeps you from crafting elegant fermented beverages. Or that you simply don’t have free time for long brewing processes, bottling, and years for aging wine to perfection. All these are misconceptions! The homebrewing process is quite fun–anticipation slowly building over many weeks as the bubbles of the beverage quietly gurgle away. It’s true that wine takes about a year before it’s ready to drink, but as they say, time flies, and before you know it, it’s time to pop the cork and gather friends to savor the moment. With regard to equipment or ingredients for winemaking, these things can come quite inexpensively, or DIY freely! Continue on for a basic step by step guide from me, guest contributor Emily Rockey. You, too, dear reader, can be a winemaker.
Winemaking, quite simply, is a natural process of live yeast consuming sugar, converting it to carbon dioxide (bubbles) and alcohol. This process is called fermentation, and with wine it takes place in two basic stages: the first fermentation occurs when fruit or plants are combined with water and yeast in an open container. Soon it becomes active and bubbly. When it slows, a second round of fermentation takes place in a closed container (less oxygen). After about eight weeks, the lively party is over and the wine shifts to a period of relative tranquility, resting in a cool dark spot such as a closet or interior room. After it settles, we’ll siphon the wine (called racking) to separate it from the yeast particles at the bottom, and let it sit for nine months. At last, your calendar will remind you that it’s time to bottle and finally taste your finished wine!
Ingredients:
To start, look around for what exists in abundance, or what’s in season. We can make wine from anything that contains sugar: fruits of all kinds, herbs, and even flowers. Prickly pear wine, elderberry, or wolfberry wine? Sure! I happened to have frozen pomegranate arils from Mission Garden.
Sugar. Organic cane sugar is the most versatile, but if you like you can experiment with other natural sweeteners (and their flavor profiles).
Brewing yeast: It is possible to make wine without adding packaged yeast, but for a home winemaker like you and me, yeast is easy to find and a reliable way to kickstart fermentation. Brewing yeast is sold at brew shops or online for $2-$3. Experiment a bit, or start with a neutral ale, cider, or champagne yeast.
For the recipe below, I used a neutral yeast strain called EC1118 which contributes very little flavor or aroma to the finished product. It is quite flexible, thriving in cool or warm temperatures (50-86°F). It also tolerates higher alcohol content.
For easiest and most reliable results in making your wine, use commercial yeast.
Time to produce: Regarding the preconception that wine requires significant time to produce, it’s mostly waiting time. My actual hands-on time to make a batch of wine totaled only about four fun hours…spread out over 12 months! The vast majority of the winemaking time is the wine doin’ its thing by itself.
Supplies for a 3-gallon batch: The good news is that you may already own or have easy access to the basic equipment. If not, everything is inexpensive or easy to make at home.
A 3-5gallon vessel for first fermentation. Non-reactive: preferably glass, stainless steel, but many folks use food-grade plastic. Also ceramic crocks in good condition work well.
Two or three 1-gallon glass jugs (carboys). The glass jars containing commercial pressed apple juice with the handy little finger handle work perfectly.
Airlock and rubber stopper. $5 from your local brew shop or online. Allows CO2 from the brew to be released, but prevents outside air from entering the vessel. (Here’s how airlocks work.)
Sanitizer. Please use well-cleaned hands, surfaces, and tools, but don’t worry too much about sterilization–I’ve never had a problem. (There were no sanitizers 6000+ years ago in the Mediterranean region where wine was first made.) However, this is an often discussed topic for brewers. I do use inexpensive sanitizer (such as Star San brand) because it’s quite easy, quick, and safe to use.
Optional: bottles for finished wine. Or just drink it when ready with a group of friends.
Now you’re ready to make wine!
The basic recipe is inspired mostly by Sandor Elix Katz in his book Wild Fermentation.
This batch was made with Sonora White Pomegranate (Punica granatum), but I’ve successfully made Elderberry-Blueberry Wine (from Sambucas mexicana), Wolfberry Wine (Lycium pallidum), Fig Wine (Ficus carica), Mission Grape Wine (Vitis vinifera), and a funky Quince Wine (Cydonia oblonga) which we quickly transformed into brandy…
Instructions:
*Note: The ultimate ratio of fruit volume to water is approximately 1:1, so for ~3 gallons of fruit (fresh or frozen, defrosted), add ~3 gallons of water. The finished wine will be about 5 gallons. You can make smaller or larger batches by keeping the same basic ratio.
1. Place 1.5 gallons pomegranate arils into a clean container or crock (at least 3 gallons/11+ liters in size), followed by 1.75 gallons boiling water. Cover with a clean towel. Set the container on the counter at room temperature on a cookie sheet to catch drips.
2. The next day, ladle out about 1 cup of liquid in a glass and add to it 3 grams of yeast. I used strain EC1118; see above). Allow it to dissolve and get bubby and active for a few minutes.
Then add it to the main fermentation vessel, also known as the wine must. Stir well and recover with towel.
Note: A 5g yeast packet will satisfy a 5 gallon batch. For a 1 gallon batch, use only about 1/4 of the packet, and so on.
3. Within hours, the must will be bubbling vigorously! Use a ladle or spoon to “punch down” the fruit and stir it from the bottom. Recover with towel.
4. The next day, the brew will be bubbling excitedly (audibly!) as the yeast devours the fruit sugar. Each morning, midday, and night (or up to 5 times daily), punch down and stir. Keep covered with towel.
Here is the yeast bubbling vigorously devouring the fruit and water mixture.
5. On Day 3, the yeast have consumed much of the natural fruit sugar, and we need to feed them more. Heat 5-6 pounds pure cane sugar with just enough water to dissolve, cover and cool completely. Add this sugar/water mixture to the wine must, stir well, and cover. (If this seems like a lot of sugar, don’t worry, the yeast will consume most of it.)
6. Continue stirring 3-5 times daily as it continues to bubble and froth. A taste of the liquid will be sweet with a little alcohol detectable, and some zingy fruity flavors.
7. On Day 5-6 (or when bubbles are less vigorous upon stirring), it’s time to strain the fruit from the liquid and compost the spent fermented fruit. Using clean hands and tools (strainer, funnel, airlock, carboys), strain the wine to fill 2-3 carboys, avoiding empty space (oxygen) if you can; a few inches headspace is ideal. Properly fill airlocks with water (or vodka) and install.
8. Keep in a cool spot for one month. I use my laundry room which stays fairly cool (~70F). Active bubbling resumes and the airlocks gurgle happily, letting carbon dioxide escape.
Carboy with an airlock. This will sit undisturbed for a month.
9. After a month, check the sugar content by carefully adding a spoonful of sugar onto the surface of the wine. If it doesn’t immediately respond with active bubbling, the sugar content is just right–replace airlock and wait another month.
If the wine does react excitedly, add ½ cup sugar, and recheck in a few days (totaling no more than 2 cups). Then, wait another month.
10. After these two months, clean supplies again because it’s time for the second and final siphon/rack! We’ll separate the yeast sediment on the bottom (called lees) from the finished wine. My batch made a little over 2.5 finished gallons, so I used pint sized flip-top bottles (Grolsch) for the partial gallon–just take care when opening these later due to possible pressurization.
11. Now go do something else for nine months. Periodically check that the airlock liquid hasn’t evaporated. When it’s time to sample the wine, try it both chilled or at room temp, and savor the complex and subtle flavors of the fruits of the desert.
Gallons of delicious finished wine!
Congratulations, winemaker! If the process is fun and you want to try more, there are wonderful books on home winemaking and fermentation. I am partial to Sandor Elix Katz’s guides because of their simplicity and use of natural ingredients. Sometimes I hesitate to embark on a new endeavor because I worry I’ll mess it up. I then remember that wine is a very forgiving process, and I have little to lose if anything goes truly awry. If wine gets exposed to too much oxygen, it will become vinegar (acetic acid), so the worst case scenario is you have some really interesting vinegar with which to cook. Salud!
(Please share below in the comments any wine adventures and experiences you embark upon.)
Hi friends, it’s true, crackers without the rolling. Amy here sharing this week’s iteration of this miracle recipe I found online. It all started with an abundance of oats…
A friend gifted me many pounds of organic rolled oats. Searching for inspiration to use them, I found Camilla’s Easy No-Roll Oat Crackers ( vegan, oil free, GF). It is a brilliant recipe that I’ve been making often these last few weeks since I discovered it. Besides oats, they contain seeds or mix of seeds. Sunflower makes particularly good crackers but branching out, I remembered Carolyn’s Black Beauty Wafers using saguaro seed. The seeds are strained out when making a syrup so those are a brilliant way to use the seed.
In June, the birds get the first feast of saguaro fruit. If there is more ripening fruit than the birds eat, it falls the ground, often sun dried and intensely concentrated, where I can easily harvest it without poking the plant. No need for a pole!
The ground animals get to feast first before the humans, of course, so we waited. But ripe fruit spoils in the rain, and I would never complain about glorious rain! So this year wasn’t the best saguaro fruit harvest for humans. (below, note the mesquite leaflets for scale)
I had some oooold fruit stored in the pantry so I decided to use the whole fruit instead of just the seeds.
I soaked it in water to soften it.
And blended it enough to grind the seeds. Then I added the oats, salt, baking powder and oil.
The batter is poured onto a greased half sheet pan (or even a bit larger pan to make crackers just a bit thinner).
Instead of rolling the dough, it just needs to be smooth!
I prefer to add just a touch of salt to the batter so I can sprinkle a decent amount on top. I ground my best Mexican sea salt for this.
Then I sprinkled with saguaro seed.
After baking for ten minutes, the crackers can be scored before returning to the oven to finish.
After baking with careful supervision, this batch got darker from the sugar in the saguaro fruit than other batches. A hit of sweetness and delicious! Next time I’ll use a slightly larger yet pan so they are a little thinner. The thinner ones are crispier and more delicate. But think or thin, they are easy to enjoy with spreads, alongside a salad or on their own as a trail snack. Enjoy!
For the recipe, see Camilla’s post on her blog powerhungry.com
Instead of seeds, I added the equivalent weight of dry saguaro fruit. I added a quarter cup of olive oil and reduced the water by that amount. I used approximately 1 teaspoon of coarse sea salt divided between the batter and sprinkled on top with the saguaro seeds. Experiment and have fun!
Yummmmm. If you have never tasted a mulberry–or maybe you remember browsing them as a kid back east or in the Midwest–you will be blown away by the glorious mulberry harvest happening right now at Mission Garden!
Tia Marta here tempting your tastebuds for a gentle, natural sweet treat–but…you have to take action SOON. If you’re in southern Arizona, find a hole in your schedule, and a way to get to the base of Tucson’s A-Mountain this week for a mulberry taste-thrill. It will inspire a new planting in your desert home landscape. Three different mulberries await you in Mission Garden’s beautiful and diverse orchards. Come early–summer hours are Wednesday thru Saturday, 8am-noon.
A sumptuous harvest after this wet winter! Look for trees on the Mission Garden grounds that have a big white fabric tarp underneath, and voila! Shake a branch and dive in for a dark, delicious, delicate mulberry, fresh from the tree. The elongated fruit shown here is Pakistani mulberry (Morus alba x rubra), producing like mad even in Tucson’s heat.
Female trees produce fruit. Male, pollen-producing, trees are controversial in Tucson due to allergenic affects. Somewhere out there, there must be male mulberries; none are growing at Mission Garden, yet we have no dearth of fruit.
Handmade mulberry jams are going fast at the Mission Garden entrance shop! It’s the best jam you ever tasted, made with love by Mission Garden volunteers in their health-department-certified kitchen. You can’t find local gourmet delicacies like this commercially. The closest thing (like frozen raspberries at a grocer’s freezer?) can’t hold a candle to Mission Garden mulberry jam or sauce! ($8 for the 8oz. jar)
Mulberry jam doubles as a gourmet sauce. My pedestrian apple-brown-betty morphed into a fancy dessert with ala mode topped by a dollup o’ Mission Garden’s mulberry jam. (Mulberry seeds in the sauce are minimal and add a tiny crunch texture.)
As you explore further through the Mission Period huerta (orchard) you’ll find yet another gorgeous green mulberry tree with a totally different color and shape of fruit. (Above, looking up into the foliage, and ripe fruit adjacent) This is white mulberry (Morus alba) with a pale pink or lavender color, and a flavor some people describe as “watermelon” or “lingonberry” or “cloud berry.” So juicy you can’t stop….
A big surprise is to learn that we have a NATIVE mulberry “bush” in the arid Southwest–the wild, small-leafed mulberry tree (Morus microphylla). It’s inspiring to know it is adapted to our Sonoran Desert, only needing a little extra water; it grows close to arroyos out in Nature. This may be one of those amazing plants that may help provide food for us in a hotter, drier future…
Each little wild mulberry is a zap of sweet nutrition, packed with healthy complex sugars, dietary fiber, beta carotines, vitamin C and iron.
I can hardly wait until Mission Garden is propagating cuttings of all these several amazing mulberry species. Already I’m figuring where I can plant them in my yard. Whatever we can’t harvest each season will be a gift for the birds!
This coming SATURDAY, MAY 18, is SAN YSIDRO FIESTA, Mission Garden’s celebration of the traditional pilkan harvest (heirloom wheat harvest). I’ve been playing with recipes using these heirloom grains pairing them with mulberries, but I HAD to relay this timely mulberry story for you ASAP, so you could get to Mission Garden this week to jump through this narrow “mulberry window” of opportunity.
Tia Marta hoping to see you at San Ysidro Fiesta Saturday–or sooner, browsing a mulberry tree this week!
Hello friends, Amy here enjoying another great year for the wolfberry bush (Lycium fremontii …I think) in my yard. Tucson’s native species of the Chinese goji berry, they are similarly packed with antioxidants and health benefits. In the tomato family, it’s called tomatillo in Spanish, not to be confused in size, shape, color or taste to the garden variety of husked ground cherries that go by that name. Wolfberries taste somewhat like tomatoes and work well in sweet and savory dishes, when I manage to harvest more than I eat raw from the bush. Thriving on only rainwater, one huge plant produces plenty of fruit for me and the resident phainopeplas.
Inspired by this recipe for millet balls, I used fresh wolfberries in place of dried Turkish barberries.
It was delicious! It reminded me of falafel, crispy on the outside and grainy on the inside. A simple cilantro, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil chutney complimented them perfectly.
So the next time, I decided to use amaranth seeds. I bought this from the store, but you can harvest your own from wild or cultivated plants in the late summer if you’re ambitious.
I toasted them in oil until they became a shade darker and a few of them popped open.
I added water, three times the volume of amaranth seed, and cooked in the solar oven until it was creamy. Then I mixed in fresh wolfberries and enough flour to make a soft dough.
The dough was muuuuch stickier, so I added significantly more flour than for the millet balls and still they looked shaggy. (I used all purpose wheat flour but next time will try amaranth flour).
The toasted flavor came though and I’m glad the only seasoning I used was salt and wolfberries. The dough certainly didn’t need any egg or flax egg to hold together! They baked up just as well as the millet version, but with the texture of a cookie. Next I’ll try them sweetened!
I served them with a lemon pickle but that tomatillo salsa would be good. I took the rest to a picnic among the wildflowers. Happy spring!
Savor the Southwest: 